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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:11 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2008 1:34 am
Posts: 587
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Chart your SW on the driving range 10%-100% every 5%, save them to a excel spread sheet and keep it open while you play , switching back and forth game by hitting WINDOWS key (next to ALT)

Now chart in rain and in wind so you can put the ball as close as possible to the pin for your partner inside 3m if possible.

Many people dont know this but you can play the practice hole for 1000 NG and move the ball whereever on the hole you to practice your shot from, sand,rough,wedges,long putting,etc simply by pressing scroll on your mouse(your settings may differ) After each shot your ball will reset to original shot location so you can practice until you have the shot correct.

Submitted by : michaelaz


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:11 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2008 1:34 am
Posts: 587
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Shot Planning

The first, and most obvious point is that you want a general idea of where you want the ball to land (no aiming for water unnecessarily Wink ).

The next thing you will need to consider is wind. Check this carefully, as SO only displays it in 16 directions (N, NNE, NE, ENE, E.......NW,NNW). Rotate the camera (click and drag right mouse key) until the arrow changes direction, now do this the other way. The midpoint is the true compass direction and this can be used to get a better idea of the wind. You will now know that the true wind is closer to the whatever wind was closer when you moved the camera. It's a bit wordy, but you'll get used to it after a few shots.

As for how much to adjust, give it 1% for every 0.3m/s tailwind/crosswind (note this means its about 1% for every 0.42 m/s diagonal wind) You can get an idea of how much this is exactly by using the circle (the inner circle 10 yards in diameter)

Thirdly, you need to consider the lie. I recommend you do this by feel, as the formula for it may make you throw up Laughing. If you hate maths, skip the next bit and continue from the **.

For the mathematically inclined, distance ~ cos(X+Y)D0/(cos^-1(X)) where X is angle of elevation for the club, Y is the uphill angle of the slope (negative if downhill) and D0 is your natural distance (100%-0% and no other adjustments). The club angles are approximately as follows (not given in game):

driver: 7 degrees
3W: 15 degrees
5W: 19 degrees
3I: 21 degrees
4I: 23 degrees
5I: 27 degrees
6I: 28 degrees
7I: 30 degrees
8I: 35 degrees
9I: 39 degrees
PW: 44 degrees
AW: 49 degrees
SW: 57 degrees

Add about 5 degrees for backspin from 5I and lower, similarly add 5 degrees for topspin (though it varies with the skill stat)
The lie angles can be worked out with basic triginometry (tan^-1 hieght/length)- use your screen for approximations. Use the largest feasible sample for accuracy.

Note that if X+Y<0 the ball will go downwards and won't go far. Likewise if X+Y>90 it will fly up in the air and can will go backwards. The formula isn't accurate for extreme downhill lies,

** It should be noted that the effect on the ball is determined by the lie under the ball, not the character's feet. However, these are the same 99% of the time.

For side lies, the easiest way to judge the balls path is to mentally draw a line from the feet to the ball, and the line going through the ball perpedicular to this will be the approximate path.

The other factors don't require as much thought, but are the most important. Take the middle of the %ages for fairway, rough, sand etc. Rain takes off 11%, cloud takes off 6%. Add 0.5% for every degree above 25C and take 0.5% for every degree under 25C. ++

The one factor that is often overlooked by beginners is the balls roll. The circle only tells you the first bounce (before you add the above factors). This is quite a tough adjustment to make as it depends on so much. I would advise adding 10% for long clubs if you are hitting green directly, 6% otherwise. For lower clubs, use backspin and add about 5% initially (you shouldnt hit fairway at all if you hit with backspin with a low club). This will change at higher levels.

There are 2 cases where you have to hit differently (they aren't common outside of cadeiger though). The first is when you have a big drop in elevation (-25m or more), gravity seems to stop acting when the ball gets to level , so backspin always and aim a fair bit short.

The other is when you are chipping and the pin is at the end of big uphill, consider using a higher club at a lower power.

++ the circle appears to be affected a little by temperature, so a case could be made to ignore it.

Now for some out of game tips:
When you get the cyma for doing the antony-bestra quest for getting to level 21, either save it until you're SP.
When you get access to the auction house, check the items VERY CAREFULLY. Check endurability, whether its repairable or not (will be a message in the repair cost slot), and search for the item to compare prices (they are usually the same price for every char).
If you need a mag, make a new character for the 18 hole mag and cyma and transfer it via the individual locker at Potter, then delete the char so you can repeat it 2 days later. Not exactly effective, but if you don't play much or can't afford to buy one, it works.
If you are finding it hard to find a game, ask someone in gamelist or square, there is usually someone nice enough.
I would highly recommend joining a guild too, most guilds will happily take in newcomers and you will find it easier to get games (if you're not, y
ou're in the wrong guild).
Save your NG, don't completely change your clubs too often (I'm level 81 and still use a level 25 SW). Stay away from the main 3 special club sets (tornado, hurricane and tempest) until you can sustain them, the repair costs are expensive.[/list]

Submitted by : manudude03


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:12 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2008 1:34 am
Posts: 587
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
When putting, if you are:

0y to 3y away from the hole:

Pretty much it is a "gimme" (most of the time). Aim for the center of the cup and hit about 30%. If the green is sloping wildly (lines moving very fast), you can use your right mouse button to position the hole in the center of the screen (by right clicking and holding the button down while dragging on the screen until the hole is centered). Once centered, use your mouse wheel to "zoom in" as close as possible to the cup. Once there, if the lines were moving wildly to the, then slightly move your aim-point (the spinning red thing) by using your left mouse button and holding it in and moving the marker so that it is "cut in half" by the pin itself. "Cut the pin" with the aim-point to the left if the lines were moving right, and vice versa. This is sometimes called "powering it in." Almost all putts, except those that are only an inch or two from the hole, (then you can back off to about 20%) will go in using this method, despite the slope of the green.


3y to 5y away from the hole:

This is perhaps one of the hardest putts to preform. Why? Because you are so close that you might want to try to "power it in" by hitting about 35% to 40%, but if you do that and miss your ball will likely roll way past the hole, and you may just begin a cycle of what is sometimes called "ping-pong putting." This happens when you try to power it in and miss, then you feel even more strongly that you must try to power your next shot in, and miss again, and so forth; and then you wind up 3, 4 or more-putting a hole, when you could have made it in either 1 or 2 shots.

To deal with this, you must first firmly make up your mind whether you are going to try to "power putt" it, or whether you will try to hit with the correct speed try to make it the "normal" way. Because if you don't firmly make up your mind, you may wind up trying to do both methods unconsciously, and this will almost certainly cause you to miss your putt. So make up your mind. Then try either one of the methods described in this section.

I personally recommend trying to putt it in using the correct distance (percentage) and trying to "arc" it in (described below). This way if you make it - great! But if you miss, your next putt will be a sure thing.

5y to about 20-25y away: THE ARC SHOT

I have found it useful, that when trying for longer putts to use "The Arc Method." If a green is sloping to the right or left, try to visualize (using the moving lines) an "arc" that the ball will travel as it moves toward the hole. You can also maneuver the screen (by left clicking and holding the button in and moving the screen up or down ONLY -- not side to side just yet -- and placing your head at about the half-way point between the ball and the hole. Then adjust your left-right aim so that your head falls between the mid (half-way) point of the arc that you previously visualized. Hit at the correct speed (percentage) for the distance you have, then the ball should "arc" out and then back toward the cup... and if your are lucky, and practice at it, it may go in. If it doesn't go in, at least you should be close enough to the hole so that your next putt will be a very easy "tap in."

One more thing about the slope of the green: If the green is sloping in a mixture of lefts and rights (the lines) then try to count how many lines slope right & how many slope left. If they are equal, then the putt should wind up going straight anyhow (curving right then left and into the hole - hopefully), or vice versa. If the number of left is more than right, then you should figure on a slight "right turn" of the ball to the hole, and adjust for it according to how much the difference is in your calculations - and vice versa. But always remember to hit it at the correct percentage to get it to stop very near (or better yet IN) the hole.

Lastly, of course, remember if you are putting uphill or downhill you will have to adjust your power accordingly (percentage). And also remember that when putting uphill the ball will "arc" less than when putting downhill - in general.

Good luck!

Submitted by : RackAttack


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:12 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2008 1:34 am
Posts: 587
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS TO CHART YOUR SAND WEDGE AND IMPROVE YOUR SHORT GAME:

1.) OPEN NOTEPAD ON YOUR WINDOWS MACHINE.

2.) NOW START SHOTONLINE (LOGIN ETC..)

3.) NOW YOUR ARE IN THE SQUARE, GO TO CERIDWEN AND SELECT DRIVING RANGE.

4.) NOW SELECT THE MOST IMPORTANT CLUB TO CHART. "THE SAND WEDGE"

5.)AFTER YOU SELECT YOUR SAND WEDGE, HIT YOUR FIRST SHOT AT 10% AND SEE HOW FAR IT TRAVELS.. (REMEMBER THE DISTANCE)

6.) NOW HOLD "ALT" AND HIT "TAB" THIS SWITCHES YOU TO NOTEPAD. (DO THE SAME TO SWITCH BACK TO THE GAME)

7.) NOW RECORD THE DISTANCE YOUR BALL TRAVELLED FOR 10% ... SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS 10% = 2 YDS. (DISTANCE HERE IS JUST AN EXAMPLE YOUR CLUB MAY HIT FARTHER OR SHORTER)

8.) CONTINUE TO DO THIS EVERY 5% PERCENT EG. 15% = 4 YDS AND 20% = 8 YDS RECORD THIS INFORMATION IN NOTEPAD AND SAVE.

9.) SHOULD LOOK LIKE THE EG. BELOW WHEN FINISHED.

10%=2yds
15%=4yds
20%=8yds
25%=12yds
30%=17yds
35%=21yds
40%=27yds
45%=30yds
50%=38yds
55%=43yds
60%=48yds
65%=52yds
70%=57yds
75%=60yds
80%=65yds
85%=68yds
90%=70yds
95%=72yds
100%=75yds

10.) SAVE Smile

11.) NOW EVERYTIME YOU PLAY SHOT ONLINE DON'T FORGET TO OPEN YOUR SAND

Submitted by: Freak_Nasty


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:12 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2008 1:34 am
Posts: 587
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Click on the driving range, once your in there, change the temp until you get 26 and sunny....

Add this amount to the distance on each club ( for green roll )

SW = 1yd
AW = 1yd
PW = 1yd
9 = 1.5yd
8 = 2yd
7 = 2.5yd
6 = 3.5yd
5 = 4.5yd
4 = 5yd
3 = 5yd
5W = 5yd
3W = 5yd
1W = 8yd

The green you see off to the left at the range is 60yd to its edge..

The green you see off to the right at the range is 80yd to its edge..

The 2nd green area on the left side is 90yd to its edge..

The green off to the right of that is 104yd to its edge...

The 3rd green on the left is 114yd to its edge...

And the farthest green on the right is 121yd to its edge...

The top of the slope at the range is 150yd..


Once you have all your clubs charted with a temp of 26 and sunny, then change the sun to rain and the temp from 26 to 21..

When you finish that, you don't need to chart the cloud's, all you do is subtract the rain distance from the sun distance and you get the cloud distances...

Yes, some will say there is NO need to do all this, its a waste of time, just use the circle and play and to that i say this....

It's true, you can play this game that way but imo, why guess when you can take the time and do it correctly with my information..

I have been charting my clubs since i was a level 5, I'am level 99 now and i got 236 holes in one from charting, and NO hacking stuff was EVER used to achieve my 236hio, shot online can check my logs from the past 4+ years of playing and see this is indeed the fact, i owe it all to the driving range and what i have learned using the range..

If you take the time and use my method's i mentioned, you will become a much better player in the long run...

PS.....

Maybe shot online can add some small green's at 175yd-200yd-225y-250y and 270y, that would only help imo, thanks for reading and best of luck..( and make a endless supply of golfballs) Laughing

Submitted by :2mins3impact


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2008 1:34 am
Posts: 587
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Since begginers do not have much spin or impact points, this should be really helpful. Notice a hard time staying on the green when shooting even 110 yrds away? or falling a bit short or too long, but can't seem to figure out why? The reason is your impact and skill is too low, but your only a begginer.
Here are a few hints:
THE LANDING CIRCLE, YOU KNOW THE CIRCLE YOU SEE WHEN YOU HIT TAB? WELL AT 0 M/S WIND IMPACT IS NEAR BOTTOM OF THE WHITE CIRCLE:

((( <------+------> )))
...................^ ball will impact here @ 0 m/s
Note: () is the blue moving in and out
+ is the center of the circle
<>is the tip of white circle, where the blue circle moves in and out

so what you want to do is place the circle before the pin, so if pin is about 100 yrds away, than you want to place the circle @ say 90 yrds be cause of the bounce and roll. you get it? best way to practice this is @ the driving range.

When wind is say blowing 1 m/s north or 2 m/s north....it will result in not only longer distance but a longer ball bounce on green and foward roll, you must compensate for that. 1 m/s south..etc will result in short distance and less bounce and roll, also results in b/s but this won't apply too begginers.
In order to decrease less foward roll and bounce, you want to apply spin AGAINST the wind, once your over lvl 15, you should be able to stop the ball fairly easily. for example, @ 2.5 m/s north, put spin @ 7 o'clock, not 6, since you won't have enough to cause b/s. this will prevent the ball from rolling and bouncing past green by less than 50% .

East/West Winds:
For east and west winds, say 3 m/s west or north, put spin AGAINST WIND AGAIN, to derease ball bounce and roll, and maximize accuracy. for example @ 3 m/s west put spin at 9 o'clock and @ east wind put spin @ 3 o'clock, again practice this @ the driving range.

Chipping: go to driving range and create chipping chart

Rain/Cloud: decreases ball bounce and roll, compensate for that

(((<-------------------------------------+--------------------------------->)))
.......^2 m/s north........^1 north......^2north + cloud.....^no wind.....^1 S

Above is a sample chart @ ball IMPACT ONLY!!! does not cound ball roll, since that is greatly dependent of irons and player stats. But as a general 1 north will bounce to the very tip of the moving blue in the landing circle w/ no spin.

Note: () is the blue moving in and out
+ is the center of the circle
<>is the tip of white circle, where the blue circle moves in and out

Hope this helps, I know its a lot of work but as a lvl 32 player , i haven't lost a single skins against lvl 50-65....yet.

Submitted by : ruguehuh


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